​FOOD & WATER:

 

​​​​​​​​​​​​​-Fruits and veggies should be given in small amounts and only to rabbits older than 6 months of age, they can make younger bunnies sick whose digestive systems are still developing. Some fruits and veggies you should avoid feeding your rabbit are: beans, rhubarb, potato, mushrooms, corn, peas, canned, frozen, or dried. Also, lettuce: dark-colored varieties are fine such as romaine, but the lighter leaves are unhealthy and can cause illness, lettuce also contains lactucarium, which is a dangerous substance, so many people recommend limiting all lettuces. -Supply your rabbit with unlimted amounts of hay, this will keep their digestive tracts healthy and serve as an edible insulation in the winter for warmth if kept outside in a hutch. Timothy hay is recommended. ​​

 

-Rabbits can drink out of both a water bottle or crock. and should be given fresh water daily. Invest in electrolyetes for animals, add to their water in any time of stress or if diarreha is present. Organic apple cider vingear can be added to their water can help your rabbit in numerous ways including: fertility, coat shine, less acidic urine oder, and much more! 

 

 

​GROOMING:

 

-Long haired rabbits like our Jersey Woolies need regular brushing. Brush with a thin bristle flea comb or small dog brush. Keep fur free from tangles and mats. Nails can be trimmed with cat nail clippers when needed. To clip your bunny's nails hold them firmly but gently on their back, make sure to hold their back feet down so they can't kick, clip only the ends off of the nail and make sure not to cut too short. A nail file can be used to file the rabbit's nail if they still seem sharp. Rabbits DO NOT need to be bathed. If for any reason they do need a bath, keep it short and as stress free as possible. For urine stains on the feet and coat soak in warm water and white vingear. Dry shampoos can be used to keep rabbits smelling fresh.

 

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TEETH & CHEW TOYS:

 

-To keep their teeth healthy give your rabbit pinecones and tree branches to chew on. Make sure the branches don't have any pesticides on them, avoid branches from cherry, peach, apricot, plum, redwood, and cedar. Empty paper towel and toilet paper rolls stuffed with hay is a great way for fun edible entertainment! Or invest in a hay rack to keep it all from ending up on the floor. Salt spools are also great for your rabbits teeth and last a long time!

 

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SHELTER & HOUSING:

 

-Our rabbits live outside in our custom made hutches and wire stacking cages. Each rabbit has their own cage with a wooden box to escape from the elements. The cages are placed under our deck preventing direct sunlight, moisture, drafts, and wind from coming in. During the winter we put tarps along the sides to ensure no snow gets in. It is important to keep you your bunny safe from exposure, most rabbits do better in the winter living outside than they do in the summer, getting over heated can kill your bunny fast. make sure they can escape the heat and are placed in a shady area. In the winter make sure your hutches are well covered to keep the heat in and the cold and moisture out. -Outdoors: Wooden hutch with at least 3 covered sides and roofing. Wire flooring and pull out trays makes for easy cleaning. Wire cages outside should be in a covered area to ensure your bunny is protected from the elements. -Indoors: Wire cage with wire bottom and pull out trays (recommended). Wire cages are very easy to clean and keep your bunny the cleanest. Urine guards around the inside of the cage are also recommended to ensure messes end up in the tray. Or a Solid bottom cage with wire top. Pine bedding or paper shavings should be put in the bottom of the cage and cleaned regularly. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​-You can litter box train your rabbit for easier cleaning. To litter box train, put your litter box in the corner of the cage that your rabbit chooses to use as the bathroom and put all urine and droppings in the pan until they get the hang of it!

 

 

BREEDING & RAISING:

 

-If you are looking to get into breeding here are some things we would suggest. We usually breed at least two does at the same time just in case one litter needs fostering due to lack of care from their mother, especially first-time moms. Sometimes even if one doe has a very large litter we will foster a few to the other doe who only has a couple kits. Always remember to mark your fostered kits to remember who's kits are who's. Permanent marker can be put inside their ear for identification purposes.

 

-When breeding, take the doe to the bucks cage so he is more interested in her rather than new surroundings in another cage. Do not leave them unsupervised to prevent them from fighting. When we breed we put the buck and doe together 2-6 times that day to have a better chance of pregnancy and possibly larger litters, depending on your doe. To ensure the breeding was successful, watch to see if the buck mounts the doe and falls off with a grunt.

 

-A rabbit's gestation period is 28-31 days. Mark which day you bred them on your calendar and count around 31 days to determine the due date, given that they can kindle anywhere before or after then. Do not leave your buck in with the doe while she is pregnant. Right after she gives birth the buck can mate with her again and she will have another litter a month later while her young kits are still depending on her. Also by letting the buck live with the doe it is possible that she can get pregnant with two different litters that could be weeks apart, which is very dangerous to the doe and the kits.

 

-Around day 10-14 you can confirm the pregnancy by palpating. When palpating you are feeling for the kits which will feel like little marbles or grapes. Place your doe on her back or hold her upright and feel along the sides of her abdomen for the babies. Do not mistake the rabbits intestines for babies that may feel like something moving, the kits are located on the sides not in the middle.​​-We give our expecting does a nest box full of shredded paper on day 28 into their pregnancy. The doe will pull her hair and make a nest weeks or even days before giving birth. Supply your doe with lots of materials to build her nest to keep her kits safe, warm, and dry. Pine shavings can be used in the nest box as insulation but can sometimes cause eyes infections as they start to open their eyes. We use shredded paper as it is more absorbent and softer on the kits delicate skin. Give your doe lots of hay to build a nest, nest building is a good indicator on knowing she's pregnant! Babies will not survive in only a nest of hair. No matter what the temperatures are like. They need to be kept close together to keep each other warm and if scattered they will get cold and die. The hay nest will keep the babies close and warm with the hair the mother will put over them.​